PART 4: CONTINUING TO DEVELOP

We are reaching the end of our style series yet are looking forward to the beginning of a new chapter of inspiration. One that is very much rooted in style, but takes on a different scope of influence: FIT. In the next month, we will be taking you through all of the steps and tools you need to ensure you not only have a sartorial eye for style but the wherewithal to know how to achieve that flawless fit. But before we move forward, let’s take a moment and look back on our journey thus far and around at our fellow pilgrims. Continue to Develop When you get to the point where you’ve taken the time to 1) know yourself 2) begin experimenting with various outfits and 3) work your way around an array of both structural and material details, you’ll come to realize that your style journey has just begun.  From there, you can continue to build your self-confidence and develop as a sartorial artist like the gentlemen in the pictures below. Inspired by the eclectic styles seen on the streets of New York, Ludget Delcy started the blog Dapperlou.com to photograph men with admirable styles and exciting spins on menswear. Have Fun With It And at this point, you should remember that developing personal style should always be something positive – an enjoyable and creative process where you get to figure out how to look and be your best.  By walking down this stylish path, you’ll come to realize the enormous physical and psychological benefits of putting forth your best foot when it comes to curating your image on a daily basis. Dan Trepanier, AKA “The Style Blogger,” was voted by Esquire magazine as the “Best Dressed Real Man in America.” He defines a good sense of style as “the ability to bring things together in an unexpected and original way.” Evolution of Style Furthermore, style should never be stagnant.  It should be ever evolving in color, pattern, detail, and material with transformative combinations of formal, casual, prep, street and everything in between.  Whatever your motivation is for developing style – physical appeal, new job, new direction in life, etc. – don’t stop feeding that inner fire. Wale Oyejide, AKA “Woe” is a blogger at lessgentlemen.com, where they believe that fashion is more than just clothing but the embodiment of a better life and a better self – a concept we embrace to the core!   Whether you are a seasoned sartorialist or new to the game there is room for improvement in all of us. We are here to give you the support you need to keep progressing. Please send us your questions, and we’d be happy to devote a post or series to sharing what we know. Until then, be inspired, take risks and always strive to be your best, everyday.

How to Rock a Budget Watch With Your Custom Suit

“A timepiece is the final say to any man’s outfit.” 
Timeless Role as a Statement Piece
These days, the functional value of a wristwatch is waning with the ubiquitous use of cell phones for time-keeping. However, the aesthetic value of a watch can’t quite be replicated (yet) by an iPhone no matter how well designed. A classy and well-coordinated timepiece will get noticed, so use your wrist real estate wisely.
And while an elegant Patek Phillipe, vintage Rolex, or an sleek IWC will surely get their share of compliments, they’re priced out of reach for most wrists (unless, of course, you’re Chris Paul). Fortunately, there are dozens of very respectable brands priced from the low hundreds to the low thousands, but today, we’re only going to focus on one uber affordable combination that will allow you to elevate your look while spending less than $50.
Here’s how:

Watch straps. Buying a single watch and rotating watch straps has been a well-known secret of the sartorially imaginative.
For the absolute extreme in value, you can’t beat the value of a Timex Easy Reader or Weekender which you can pick up for just $20-35. The simple face allows for endless alternative strap possibilities to pair with just about any look you’re going for whether it’s that dressy look for the boardroom to the laid-back ensemble for the weekend escape to the shore. Got some more change you can throw into your wrist candy? Here are a few more watches to consider from less to more expensive: Seiko 5, Triwa Nevil, Uniform Wares, Mougin & Piquard, Junghans x Max Bill or the Georg Jensen Koppel.
The NATO strap

One of our favorites is the “NATO” watch strap, a traditionally nylon watch strap of British military origins that was popularized for its pairings with dive watches a la James Bond. We agree it looks fantastic with classic dive watches (like the classic Rolex Submariner), but they also work extremely well with a basic budget watch like the aforementioned Easy Reader/Weekender.
Where to Get Them:
You can either pick them up for as little as $10 at Jcrew, P&B, or Amazon.  By taking a $30 timex and adding a few interchangeable NATO straps to the mix you turn a budget watch into a versatile statement piece that’ll stretch across your entire wardrobe.

Looking to dress up your look even more? Swap out that nylon strap for a leather one for something that’ll make your look a little more boardroom appropriate. 
Removing and Changing the Watch Strap:

To remove the original watch strap of your watch, you can either visit any watch store/repair shop to have them quickly removed or do it yourself with a spring bar tool. Here’s an excellent video that guides you through the process. It should take no longer than 5 minutes:
If your watch strap is too long on your wrist, check out this video of a clever method for cutting and shortening any nylon strap.
Don’t be afraid to go bold. Whereas the rules for an attractive tailored suit are well-defined, the watch strap is an area where you can have a lot more freedom to take some chances. Go for that fresh orange color nylon strap with your serious dark suit–break some rules, show some color, maybe offend some watch snobs and have some fun. In the end, that’s what style’s about.

Got any questions or comments on watch straps, budget watches, custom suits, or all of the above? Leave a comment below or email us at concierge@blacklapel.com and we’d be happy to chat!

Tie Bars

Q: “I recently added tie bars to my sparse collection of accessories in an effort to add some flair to my looks, but I’m not really sure how to wear them. Is there a rule for where on the tie you should wear a tie bar?” – Jim K.

A: When it comes to accessorizing a suit, men, for better or worse, don’t have much to choose from – a tie, watch, pocket square and maybe a pair of cuff links are usually the full set of adornments typically worn. But if worn in tasteful moderation, a tie bar can be another option in adding a touch of class to any suit-and-tie outfit. It’s simple to wear and can do a lot for your look.  So when you decide to adorn your tie with these bad boys of metallic glory, this is how you should wear them:
Placement - we suggest wearing the tie bar between the 2nd and 3rd buttons of the shirt. There is no hard and fast rule on this (some people like to go lower – between the 3rd and 4th buttons) but we think this location is the sweet spot in terms of creating the most balanced and flattering look.
When using a tie bar, remember that the practical function of the tie bar is to keep your tie in place on your shirt. So make sure you clip both ends of the tie, as well as the placket of the shirt. This will keep your tie centered on your body, which keeps your look clean, structured and sharp.

For a classic tie bar you can’t go wrong with, try our stainless steel tie bar. If you like the look of a smaller tie bar with a skinnier tie, we also recommend these 1 inch tie bars (pictured above) from the thetiebar.com. Both will add that little but noticeable pop to your outfit!

http://www.ausuit.com.au/

How Do You Tie an Eldredge Knot?

 Q: “I stumbled upon this image recently of a tie knot that completely blew my mind. What is this majestic thing and how do I go about tying it?” - Alex J.

A: This mindblowing work of tie artistry is called the “Eldredge knot”. Its origins are uncertain (more on this later), but we do know its been gaining a lot of popularity through images going viral on sites like Tumblr and Pinterest. And yes, the tie is as tricky to tie as it looks. So grab your favorite tie, a cup of coffee, perhaps a towel and a heavy dose of patience…because this one might have you working up a sweat.

1. Make sure the wide end of the tie ends at the mid point of your belt because you will tie this entire knot with the little end.
2. While holding the big end in place–create a dimple–swing the little end over the front of the big end and go around the back.
3. Bring the little end up and over the front of the loop.
4. Bring the little end through the loop and towards the right side (make sure the knot is tight).
5. Now bring that little end over the center (of the knot) to the other side and bring it towards the back again.
6. Bring the little end up over the top of the knot (make sure the knot is tight).
7. Now, this is when it gets a little tricky. Keep this part loose. Create a loose knot by bringing the little end behind and through the loop.
8. Pull the little end through and tighten till you get a tight knot.
It’s halftime baby – almost there. Take a deep breath, a sip of Gatorade and finish strong.
9. Bring the little end behind the loop.
10. Swing it up in front again.
11. And over the top towards the back and to the opposite end.
12. Go through the loop (keep it loose) in a similar fashion to step #7.
13. Pull through and tighten the knot.
14. Hide the remaining little end of the tie behind your loop.
15. Congrats! You just completed the Eldredge knot! Now go and impress your friends and coworkers!

More info here:http://www.matthewaperry.com/

Ovadia & Sons

First off, thank you Shimon and Ariel Ovadia. You have truly created (in my mind) one of the best look-books I’ve seen in a long time (and I’ve been on this planet 26 long damn years). So much so that I had to get on here and type this rambling, yet “you guys are the best, man” article. Yes, all the #menswear nerds have re-tweeted, tumbled, and/or face-booked the hell out of their Fall/Winter Collection already (I’ll accepted my late pass, Lawrence), but most who visit our site aren’t combing through blogs for a living. This, my friends, is worth sharing to the masses; you know those guys who might not know what double monks are and certainly don’t know when Fashion Week is.  No one in their right mind, however, would attempt to argue the fact that the brothers have done a sensational job with their newest collection for the masses. Men, in most parts of the US, are afraid of shopping. Trust me, I live in Ohio. No matter what people tell you, graphic tees are not for adults. The Ovadia’s have created a collection of ready-to-wear garments for any kind of man. It’s about time that we start really taking time to invest in quality pieces that we can one day pass down our sons.  I was lucky enough to have the opportunity to visit their booth in NYC and talk with Nicolas, which from first glance I knew they had created something truly amazing. Well, they didn’t stop there; teaming up with the ever-growing photographer Justin Chung to shoot their newest campaign. What I like most about Justin’s photography is that it presents an angle that has yet to be explored in the fashion world. I am tired of the “traditional shoots (you know, white canvas backdrop, studio, controlled settings + 8 million assistants). He’s stepping outside, using nature as his back drop. Alright, enough rambling. Here’s 3/4 of their look-book for your viewing pleasure. Indulge!

Ratio Clothing’s “Handcrafted in North Carolina” Dress Shirt

 Over the past several months, Modern Fellows put two of Ratio Clothing’s custom dress shirts through the motions.  We found a remarkable and competitively-priced American-made dress shirt that uniquely balances convenience, fit, fabric and a desire to make sure the customer is happy with the final product.

Read on to find out why it’s been a pleasure to get to know founder Eric Powell as well as to understand how Ratio differentiates itself from other online custom clothiers — and to discover a handful of design options that are available but not emphasized on its website.

Why Ratio Clothing?

Ratio Clothing was born of several frustrations founder Eric Powell felt when it came to finding a well-fitting dress shirt.  Off-the-rack garments never fit quite right, while online custom clothiers often required extensive and cumbersome self-measurements to pinpoint that unique fit.  Eric’s solution was to found Ratio Clothing, which emphasizes ease of ordering and quality fabrics.  Ratio also promises a perfect fit and manufactures their shirts in North Carolina, and has garnered some glowing reviews from everyone from Dappered to Valet.  All of these things made the company a great candidate for Modern Fellows’ custom project.  (For more on Ratio Clothing, see Modern Fellows’ interview with Eric Powell.)

The Daily Hookup first alerted Modern Fellows to Ratio Clothing.  Modern Fellows purchased a voucher from the Daily Hookup to put towards Ratio’s Harrison Tattersall shirt with a spread collar.   Eric subsequently offered to provide a White Signature Twill shirt with a semi-spread collar at no cost to Modern Fellows for the purposes of a review.  This article is based on impressions of both shirts.

Ratio clothing order form

The Experience

Ordering online from Ratio Clothing is remarkably — unusually — simple and straightforward. The reason? You only need to know three pieces of readily-available measurements: sleeve length, neck circumference, and suit size.

You then choose between several simplified options for shirt length, fit (tailored or regular), collar (English spread, button down or semi spread — my favorite and not always available from online custom retailers), cuffs (one-button barrel, two-button mitered or French), back (center, side or no pleats), pocket (yes or no), and placket (standard or seamless).  The shirt is then ready to go in your cart.

The entire process can easily be accomplished in under 5 minutes, and requires virtually no self-measurements, assuming you are already familiar with your neck and sleeve sizes.

Alternately, if you would prefer to incorporate more precise measurements into the process, you can order via a separate set of instructions available elsewhere on the site.

Ratio Clothing dress shirts

Final Product

Upon opening the box, the most striking feature of the shirts is the fabric, particularly of the blue and orange-hued pink tattersall, a Zepher weave popularized by Thomas Mason.  Ratio sources fabric from all over the world, including Italy, India and Japan.  Most of their core fabrics, including my tattersall, come via direct relationships with Indian mills that also contract with high-end Italian operations, which helps ensure high quality operations and fabrics. The tatterall is light and silky, while the heavier weave of the twill is soft and substantial. Both feel terrific to the touch.

Eric told Modern Fellows that he estimates that Ratio’s simplified method gets a perfect fit for customers “about 85-90 percent of the time.”  For me, the process produced a garment that was about 90 percent perfect the first time around.

Overall, the shirts, which variously arrived two to three weeks after placing the orders, fit very well out of the box, and I adore them. They look great and feel well-constructed. The buttons are large – but not oddly so – and easy to fasten. Both collars, the spread and semi-spread, sit well and do a good job framing your face.

As for that other 10%: The shirt sleeves ended up just under a quarter inch too long after repeated washings, which proved long enough to be noticeable.  The second minor issue is that the forearms are a hair too snug, which causes slight rippling between the elbow and the wrist in the photos of the white twill shirt below.

Ratio’s fit guarantee, described below, can resolve these minor issues and pretty quickly get anyone to a shirt that fits 100% perfectly in the event that it doesn’t right out of the box.  (I have to admit I am doing the company a disservice here by not taking them up on the fit guarantee. It’s easy to nitpick about minor issues but, since Eric has offered to make it perfect and I haven’t taken him up on it, that’s on me.)
Ratio Clothing's Harrison Tattersal dress shirt.

Ratio Clothing’s Harrison Tattersall dress shirt.

Ease of ordering versus precise fit and customization

There is an unavoidable tension between ease-of-ordering and the ability to customize and accurately capture measurements and fit preferences. Ratio’s primary ordering portal is refreshingly simple, and impressively gets a lot right with very little information.  In particular, sizing via suit measurements is ingenious.  Combined with the choice of tailored or regular fit, Ratio managed to capture my size and fit preference well without requiring many details.

At the same time, the current interface omits or obscures a couple of key pieces of information that would improve a customer’s ability to specify more precise fit and personalization of a garment.

For instance, Ratio is able to tailor the fit of a dress shirt further through shoulder shape adjustments (to account for square, uneven or sloped shoulders), forearm adjustments, and more precise shoulder, sleeve and shirt length, bicep, waist and cuff and collar circumference measurements.

They also have a few other cuff and collar options in their back pocket. For collars, Ratio offers a “Londoner” (6″ cutaway spread), forward point (3″ spread) or club in addition to what you see on the website. For cuffs, they can also do a 2-button rounded barrel, 1 or 2 button square barrel, or 1-button mitered cuffs.

Eric told Modern Fellows that Ratio is working to incorporate several of these design options into the main ordering portal, though will be careful about how and how many options are presented to preserve the ease of ordering that distinguishes them. For now, you can order via the above link to instructions or contact Ratio’s customer service who can walk you through the various options and adjustments that are available.

The best advice here is, if you don’t see an option or a way to capture a particular fit preference or sizing issue, talk it over with Ratio before putting that shirt in your cart.

Customer service, alterations policy, and reorders

At the moment, Eric handles customer service directly.  He has been quick to respond to inquiries about shirt orders with offers to address fit issues and emphasizes that he is “as fanatical about fit as our most nit-picky customer. We’re not going to roll our eyes over a guy who wants to take in a quarter of an inch. Our number one goal is to make someone a perfectly fitting shirt.”  While I have not yet taken Eric up on the offers to tweak the fit, I have no doubt about his sincerity in keeping to his company’s commitment.  The long-term challenge, as Eric acknowledges, is to be able to maintain the high level of responsiveness and overall attention that he has set as business grows.

Ratio maintains a generous “first time customer guarantee,” which permits customers to return their first purchase for a full refund, store credit, or alterations within 30 days, minus return shipping costs. (If a shirt needs to be altered or remade, Ratio will re-ship the shirt at no cost.)  Ratio’s liberal return policy, focus on quality fabrics, and strong commitment to making customers happy with the fit should inspire more than sufficient confidence to give them a try.

At the time of writing, Ratio Clothing does not offer the ability to save personal fit profiles on its website.  Customers who wish to order additional shirts must follow the same process as the first time they logged on.  (The company used to offer a saved profile system, but it was limited to core sizes and options, and did not allow customers to save advanced options.)  Ratio plans to roll out a new profile system in 2013 that will include the ability to save a detailed profile on the site to make it easier to order. In the meantime, Eric suggests customers leave a note with any changes to the standard sizing options in the “Special Instructions” box when ordering.

Cost

White Signature Twill, 100′s Two-Ply 100% Cotton, $115.00; Harrison Tattersall, 100′s Two-Ply Poplin/Zephir, 100% Cotton, $125.00; shirts from $89; free shipping — a key benefit in a business where some peers charge up to $15.

Verdict

Ratio Clothing produces an exquisite and competitively-priced American-made dress shirt that uniquely balances convenience in ordering, fit, high-quality fabrics and a desire to make sure the customer is happy with the final product.  Slightly widening the range of options available on the main selection page — in particular, permitting customers to select 0.25″ length increments for sleeve lengths — would help to improve the fit further.  It would also be nice to see more clearly highlighted on the website the fact that a broader range of cuff, collar and fit options exist, including the ability to more precisely customize sleeve lengths and to account for shoulder and forearm variations, but these are minor nits.

Bottom line: Having honed my fit profile with Eric, I would enthusiastically order from Ratio again, and sincerely look forward to keeping up with their new shirting fabrics, website enhancements and the day when Eric Powell takes the company into other menswear essentials.

How to order

Order online via Ratio’s main e-commerce portal, by following Ratio’s instructions for measuring a dress shirt that you own, or by contacting them directly at http://www.matthewaperry.com/.

Pocket Squares: A Definitive How To Guide

When it comes to completing the dapper look, nothing says suave and sophisticated quite like a clean, neatly folded pocket square. The fabric flourish is a grand touch when it comes to accessories, which means that getting things right is essential.
Follow this simple, easy to use ‘how to’ guide for those formal, black-tie occasions when nothing but the best will do for your breast pocket.
Before we take a look at folding our pocket square, let’s start by examining what we’ll need.

Choosing A Square

There are no set rules when it comes to ‘pocket squares’; theoretically, their construction can be made of any square-shaped piece of fabric you happen to have to hand.
More often than not, though, pocket squares are formed using silk handkerchiefs. Why? Firstly, handkerchiefs are easily available, uniformly shaped & styled, comparatively cheap, plus they fold easily. Secondly, they’re neatly finished around the edges for crisp corner. Lastly, the silk is luxurious and relatively easy to work with when forming.
If silk isn’t an option, a fine-spun cotton or linen will often perform the job just as cleanly without the added expense.

Selecting Your Fold

There’s no singular fold you must conform to. Just as with neckties, you’ll find a variety of options are available to you. Below is a selection of the more popular choices for you to take a look through.
Puff-Fold

A fold so simple your six-year-old nephew could make it. Leave ample time for tucking and tweaking with this fold; there’s a fine line between laid back and lazy, and the puff fold walks it with aplomb.
Lay your square out flat on the table; pick up the square from the centre and pull to a point. Fold the pointed end up to the ‘ruffled’ end and neatly tuck into the breast pocket.
Point Fold

A simple, elegant fold that peaks up out of your jacket, adding height to your torso area. A timeless classic, always fold the bottom up three quarters of the length for added rigidity so your pocket square doesn’t droop.
Fold your square into quarters. Position the square so it appears diamond-shaped and fold the left and right corners into the centre. Fold the bottom up three quarters of the length of the design to add stability. Tuck into the pocket exposing the top half of the design.
Square Fold

Another timeless classic. The square peeks out the top no more than half an inch – much more and it looks like a badly misplaced napkin. Don’t be tempted to simply fold into quarters; it won’t slip neatly into your pocket, plus it’ll sag or slide without the added support of the correct folds.
Lay your square flat on the table; fold the square over to the right. Fold over to the left ensuring the resultant rectangle is the same width of your jacket pocket. Fold the bottom up three quarters of the length of the design to add stability. Tuck into the breast pocket leaving half an inch exposed.
Multipoint fold

This is a beautiful, decorative fold that should be reserved for the most elegant of occasions; remember, it’s a highly ornamental fold, which will naturally draw much attention – don’t upstage your groomsman or special guest speaker with this design!
Fold the square roughly in half along the diagonal so the points don’t quite meet. Pull the two ends up and over far enough to make four points. Fold the edges in to match the width of your pocket. Pull up the bottom and tuck into the jacket pocket.
TOP TIP: Neatness counts with the multi-point fold, so ensure your lines are sharply defined and you practice in advance. You may want to ‘pre-fold’ several squares on the day and pick the best looking one for your pocket.

Colors & Patterns

If you’re wearing a black suit, then a white or light cream square should be your first and last choice. It’s classic, elegant and timeless. That said, you should never wear a pocket square to a funeral – it’s too flamboyant for such a somber affair.
Never match your pocket square to your suit or tie color; the lack of distinction is too bland. Nor, for that matter, should you find the most vivid, contrasting color available, void of any harmony.

Ideally, you’ll want to find an accent color, using a secondary tone on your outfit as a base. Use your socks or necktie as a starting point, but remember, don’t find a match too exacting – again, a lack of distinctive contrast feels amateurish, lackluster and leaves your outfit dull.

If you’re sold on patterns, you’ll need to use the same discerning eye as with color. Again, you want to choose designs that complement, but don’t exactly match, your outfit.

Things to Remember

Make sure your pocket square is clean and freshly laundered.
There are few things worse than a crumpled, crusty square thrown into a breast pocket. If your pocket square has been sat in a draw for the past four years, it’s best to give it a quick freshen to avoid musty pongs.
There’s nothing wrong with using your square.
Feel free to come to the rescue with your pocket square if necessary; don’t leave a teary-eyed wedding guest weeping in distress. That’s assuming it’s a handkerchief you’re using of course – you might put a damsel in even more distress if your thin linen square happens to split or leak…
Make Once, Wear Once.
Don’t reuse your pocket square without laundering again first. Never refold and tuck back in once unfurled, you won’t be able to get those crisp lines back again without a good ironing beforehand. Put that square in a side pocket out of sight.