A Man’s Belt Guide

Wearing a belt well is one of those litmus tests of fashion:  the simple task, done right, confirms you as a man who knows his clothes.  A mismatch or other error shows that you still need to learn about dressing well.  Fortunately, the basics of good belts aren’t hard to learn, and most are common sense.  The rest is personal taste — and belts allow plenty of room to express it.

Men’s Belt Basics:  Belt Length
Dress belts should have a few inches of leather to the left of the buckle once it’s fastened.  Enough to tuck under your first belt loop, or the loop on the belt if it has one, is a good rule of thumb.  Err on the side of shortness if you need to, rather than wrapping a long tail of leather around your hip a second time.  Casual belts have a little more room for flexibility, but an overly long tail end is always an awkward look.

Store-bought dress belts are usually measured with a range of pant sizes.  Pick your belts two or three sizes larger than your pants to get a good fit.  If you wear a 34″ trouser waist, a belt labeled 36″-38″ will probably be in the right neighborhood.  Of course, the easiest check is just to try the belt on in the store, at least wrapping it around your waist over your pants.  Just remember that it’ll sit a bit tighter when it’s worn properly.
Certain types of casual cloth bands have square brass buckles and a brass cap on the other end to feed through the mechanism.  Military surplus stores often have these, and other manufacturers have imitated the style as well.  These are traditionally worn “brass on brass,” with no spare belt beyond the buckle once fastened.  Since the belt is cloth, you can remove the buckle and trim the cloth down until it’s the right length, then clip the buckle back into place.

Related post:
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How to Roll Your Sleeves Up

So you’re in a situation where it’s all right to roll the sleeves up.  What’s the gentlemanly way to do it?  There are dozens of ways – here we highlight four.

Method One:  The Basic Sleeve Fold

Perhaps the most intuitive fold, this is what most of us would naturally do when we roll our shirt sleeves for the first time. This is the hardest fold to undo and aesthetically the worst looking.  However it’s simplicity and ruggedness make it a staple for the working man.

1. Unbutton the cuff and any gauntlet buttons further up the sleeve.
2. Using the cuff as the measuring point, we simply roll the sleeve over itself until it passes the elbow.  For me this is 3 times – depending on your cuff size and arm length, it may be 4 or as few as 2.
3. Adjust until you’re happy, although its better to ensure each fold is clean and straight to get the best final look.

Method Two:  The Master Sleeve Roll

Depending on how well you finish the final fold, you can have either a more casual look with the end of the cuff is still showing, turned inside out and shoved up your sleeve.  This gives a decidedly more rumpled look that many consider stylish – especially if the shirt has a contrasting cuff color that pops.

1. Again, unbutton the cuff and any “gauntlet” buttons further up the sleeve.
2. Fold the cuff inside-out and keep tugging, without folding, until you’ve exposed just a little less arm than you want to with your finished look.  The turned-back sleeve should just be inside out and unfolded at this point.
3. Fold the bottom of the inside-out sleeve about halfway up so that it makes a band beneath the inside-out cuff.
4. Adjust until you’re happy, leaving the unbuttoned and inside-out ends of the cuff sticking out of the rolled fabric.

Method Three:  The AIFA Roll

This is a casual roll for the man wanting to signal the work day is over and it’s time to grab a beer.  I sport this sleeve roll when I’m walking around town and it’s a bit warmer – it looks stylish and I can easily roll the sleeves down with no wrinkles.  It is limited though by the size of your shirt cuff – too big of a cuff and this roll is impractical.

1. Again, unbutton the cuff and any “gauntlet” buttons further up the sleeve.
2. Using the cuff as the measuring point, we simply roll the sleeve over itself 1-2 times, stopping below the elbow.
3. Adjust until you’re happy.

Method Four:  The Devil Dog Fold (Not Shown in Video)

A crisp and professional look.  We recommend this one for office settings and Marine Corps Change of Commands.  The finished effect is a band of cuffed cloth that’s even in width all around, with no corners or buttonholes showing.

1. Unbutton the cuff and any gauntlet buttons higher up the sleeve.
2. Fold the cuff in half upwards, so that the very outer edge is folded back to meet the bottom edge of the cuff.
3. Fold again, keeping the same width — half the width of the cuff — and tucking the end of the cuff underneath the new fold.
4. Keep going until you reach the desired height on your arm.  The roll of folded fabric should be even in width and should hide the cuff itself entirely.Related Articlea:

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7 Things Women Notice

This is a guest post from my friend Megan over at Style Girlfriend – visit her blog for more men’s style advice from a woman’s perspective!
Gentlemen – Let’s talk about first impressions.
Specifically the kind you make on us ladies when we first meet you.
Women size you up as soon as you say “hello.”
Yes – it does go both ways.
The funny thing is she might not even realize the mental checklist forming in her head.  But make no mistake; she’s ticking off good and bad boxes.  And you know what they say about first impressions – you only get to make one.
So make yours count.
Below are 7 visual and audio cues a woman immediately notices and how you can get it right.

1 – Your Shoes

Why it matters: If eyes are the window to the soul, then shoes are the window to your style. Wear the wrong ones, and you’ll telegraph a less-than-ideal message. If they look flimsy, she’ll suspect you’re a cheapskate. If they’re ratty and worn-down, she’ll think you don’t care about your appearance (and will wonder what else you don’t care about).
How to get it right: Consider shoes an investment. Spend what you can on a few good pairs – dress shoes in both black and brown, and a loafer or driving moccasin for more casual outfits. And be sure your shoes are outfit-appropriate – that means no sneakers or sandals with a suit.

2 - Your Greeting

Why it matters: Why do you think it’s so nerve-wracking when contestants first get out of the limo on The Bachelor?  And guys, don’t pretend you haven’t watched this addictive reality series at least once. It’s because they only get a few words and gestures to make a good first impression. A greeting is the first opportunity to present yourself the way you want to be seen. Your handshake, smile and “hello” all contribute.
How to get it right: Be confident, but friendly. Don’t look past us, or up and down our frame before you reach our face. Of course, if you can barely make eye contact from nerves, that’s not very appealing either. Look us in the eye, smile warmly, and repeat our name (to help you remember it). And never underestimate the power of a firm handshake.

Take that hand out of your pocket and introduce yourself with a handshake.

3 - Your Hands

Why it matters: Since we’re already talking about handshakes, let’s discuss the state of your skin. I know that “Moisturize” probably isn’t high on your list of daily “To Do’s.” But rough hands are not something we ladies want to put up with. No one wants to touch scaly skin. Even if you think moisturizing isn’t “manly,” it’s in your best interest to keep your skin smooth.
How to get it right: Keep a hand cream at your desk at work and use it when you’re brainstorming your fantasy football lineup or trying to decide what to eat for lunch.
Click here to see one of Antonio’s favorite hand creams.

4 - Your “Look”

Why it matters: There are, of course, big fashion deal breakers guys (hopefully) know not to make. Showing up to a date in an “I’m with Stupid” t-shirt, for instance. Or walking into a business meeting wearing a Confederate flag biker jacket.
But usually, it’s smaller things that can trip you up with a first impression. A sloppy, untucked shirt – pants that clearly haven’t been pressed – muddy, grass-stained shoes.
How to get it right: Do a full-mirror scan before you leave your house. Do you look put together? Is your hair combed? Your shoelaces tied? Does your belt match your shoes? A quick once-over will save you from little mistakes in a first impression.

Throwing on a jacket is always a safe bet.

5 - Your Watch

Why it matters: Women don’t expect every man to flex a Rolex, but we do expect you to wear a man’s – not a kid’s – watch. No Mickey Mouse faces. No calculator watches. And nothing made of rubber if you’re not running a marathon.
How to get it right: If it’s time to upgrade your wrist wear, do a reconnaissance mission at your local department store’s watch counter to see what strikes your fancy. You can’t go wrong with a metal bracelet with a dark face, or a simple-yet-classic leather band with white face. Nothing showy, but nothing that suggests you won it in a carnival game either.

 

6 – Your Grammar

Why it matters: Even in the first exchange of “Hello’s” and “Hi my name is” pleasantries, ladies are making judgments. We notice if you’re using big words or not, if you say “umm,” call us “dude” or “babe,” and if your vocabulary is riddled with curses.
How to get it right: Read more books? We’re not asking for ten-dollar words dropped into every sentence, but we want to feel confident that you can hold up your end of a conversation if we introduce you to our friends or family without fear of you embarrassing us.

7 – Your Hair

Why it matters: The way you wear your hair says a lot about you. A combover trying to cover up a bald patch – you’ll seem insecure. Greasy locks that look like they haven’t been washed in days – a total turn-off.
How to get it right: Women have different opinions on the “right” length of hair, but that’s subjective. What’s more important is how it’s styled. Or really, if it’s styled at all. If you wear your hair longer, make sure it’s in check when you walk out the door. A little – not a lot – of product is best. If you’re going bald, just shave it off and rock a bare scalp without shame.

Welcome to custom made suits shop.

MEN’S HOT WEATHER DRESSING

 
Summer is a tough time in classic menswear.
Most of our most recognizable styles descended from British military and noble fashions, and the British Isles don’t face the same kinds of summer that much of the United States does, to say nothing of warmer parts of the world.
So when traditional worsted wool suits and cotton dress shirts become unbearable, what should a fashionable man wear?
Priorities What matters when it’s hot, and what doesn’t. The things you should think about when you buy hot-weather clothing.
Looks are always important, but the line has to be drawn somewhere. When the mercury climbs up above 80 degrees (26.6 C) you need functional clothing. Consider these the most essential characteristics for hot weather menswear:

This image is from Street Etiquette - Check out their blog for an amazing collection of images!

Light Weight
This should really go without saying. You want cloth that is physically light. The less ounces/grams of textile piled up on your skin, the less work you’re doing and the easier it is for air to circulate.
Wool is the only cloth that you can almost always get a weight for in specific ounces. You’ll see it for cotton and linen some of the time, but frequently you’ll need to try on a garment, or at least pick it up, to see how heavy it’s going to be.
Whenever possible, try hot weather clothes on before buying. Ten minutes of gently moving around the store or changing room will give you a very good idea of how easy it is to carry the weight. If you’re sweating after that, it’s definitely not going to be fun to wear on a hot day in the sun.
Breathability
This is just as important as light weight, if not more so!
You need air circulating over your body to stay cool. Fabric that doesn’t breathe well will trap both sweat and hot air near your skin, leading to rapid overheating.
Finer threads, looser weaves, and more porous materials all help add to a textile’s breathability. Artificial fibers are typically non-breathable, and will make a garment more likely to keep sweat and air in.
It’s hard to overstate the importance of a good weave as well as a good fabric. A lot of cheaper manufacturers will sell anything cotton as “summer wear,” regardless of whether it’s any good in hot weather or not. A tight cotton weave holds both air and moisture in — it’ll be pure torture to wear on an 80-degree day.
Sun Protection
Most men spend less time thinking about sun protection than they should. Even dark-skinned men will feel the heat more in the sun, regardless of whether their skin can burn or not, and lighter-skinned men can find themselves in a lot of pain if they’re not careful.
Happily, classic men’s styles lend themselves well to full-body protection. Long sleeves and full trouser legs can be more cooling than a T-shirt and shorts in the right conditions. Hats and sunglasses play their role as well. And light colors will reflect far more sunlight than darker shades, keeping your clothes themselves from growing warmer in the sun.
Every warm-weather outfit should include a moment or two of thought for whether it can cover more skin comfortably or not. The less direct sun you’re soaking up the happier you’ll be, so long as it can be done with light and breathable fabrics.
Deliberate Style
The trouble with most summer outfits is that they’re products of necessity, not style. You throw on shorts and a T-shirt so that you don’t overhead, not because they look good.
Looking stylish in the summer is as much about small, deliberate gestures as it is anything else. Khakis and a white shirt are comfortable, but you look like a low-level IT staffer.
When you make a summer outfit you need to be thinking about the colors, patterns, textures, and accessories all together. The difference between stylish and just functional could be as small as a different belt or the right pocket square.
But if you don’t take the time to make that small difference you just look like one more overheated office guy. So believe us when we say that style is as important an element of hot weather clothing as breathable cloth!