If
it is a myth alive and well in the world of men's fashion , clothing
tailor- second skin par excellence, has the air to carve a new youth
market rights.Once
reserved for some eélite , traditionally composed of politicians,
businessmen, bankers and other notables seeing here an outward sign of
distinction must , tailor-made now appeals to a broader audience in
search of its quality and customization. In
its wake appears an increasing number of accessible brands installeées
or recent , strong a proposal tailored and " half-measure " in addition
to or as a main activity. Niche
market, tailor-made together actors with different faces , historical
tailors officiating especially " great extent" tailors positioned on an
area mid -high range , to new entrants to the internet, all claiming a
service outstanding against the foot of rampant standardization. For
his part, even if its purpose is engaged in a process of increasingly
differentiating the suit , however, for only 6% of the menswear market
against 10% ten years ago (source : 2009 IFM) .On
the Paris market , 31 and 33 rue Marbeuf Cifonelli the brothers , both
great- son of the founder of the house of the same name, saw in this
revival " began there nearly five years," an excellentthrough dust an aging market. "A
market that has become very active , says Lorenzo Cifonelli , witnessed
a real demand from customers whose desire turns to exclusive products ,
out of the ordinary . Today, we are more exposed to a scarcity of suppliers and know-how, as demand increases and the customer renews . The man truly supports recent annéees on all areas of aesthetics, and custom-made part . It is now home with us 30 years young , passionate about the product. "
Cifonelli , which is part of this generation of tailors " largely " is
like a handful of French tailors in the vein of expertise "
hand-stitched " , the first prize in a costume indication for starting
around € 4,800 . Located
in Paris for most , we count on the fingers of one hand the big names
have their own workshops, image Cifonelli , Smalto , Camps de Luca
Torcello or Stark and Sons . In France , there would be 150 tailors according to the National Federation of master tailors in France (source: Crafts ) .If
the big French houses perpetuate many years expertise " bespoke "
(Editor's note : making a tailored suit without using a wildcard pattern
) , they appear to remain increasingly facing new wave of " neo- tailors " attracted by the phenomenon. Whether famous or outsider , each brand comes out with a proposal tailored service or rather ... half measure , according to the purists. In February , Hermes opened its first store dedicated solely aa male universe, 230 m2 on Madison Avenue in New York. Makeup
" aa English " in the manner of a private apartment , the shop acquires
a large part of a space dedicated to special orders and custom-made . Also
flourished successive proposals designers like Giorgio Armani ( Fatto a
Mano su Misura ), Ralph Lauren (Made to Order) or Jil Sander Sartorial
line and complemented by a service tailor-made shirts. Last
blouse date Figaret the brand has also reached the milestone by
introducing a corner "custom " within its flagship store of the
Madeleine in Paris. One way to diversify its lending -to-wear , as is eégalement Hugo Boss by launching its online Tailored Line or Hackett .Industrial measurement , sometimes hand-finished
All these offers are developed on the same model , and are in fact more similar to the "half - measure." The
future owner of a measured , for example shirt, can acquire a variety
of desired criteria : collars, cuffs types , buttonholes , pockets in
the chest or embroidered initials to a relatively large selection of
quality fabrics normal or greater . After
taking measurements and the choice of the cut marks then fit a standard
pattern and a factory is then responsible for making . Also referred to as industrial measurement , although sometimes some finishes are hand finished . "I
do not like the term used for " half measures , "says Stephan Ricard
for his part , co-founder with Sophie Samson brand of custom-made suits
of the same name . Half measure would mean " take half measures ? " I think this is wrong. For my part, I take all measures a professional tailor . I prefer to talk about tailor-made and largely as haute couture. It
should be noted that today's software has evolved , and you can get a
very large number of parameters , which will further the understanding
of the morphology of each of our clients. "The
Parisian brand , the average price of a costume is around € 710, just
recently opened its fourth store in the capital boulevard Raspail,
between Paul Smith and Kenzo . "I often say that our market is not one -to-measure , but high-end costume. When
we started ten years ago , the concept was to make up for our lack of
brand a level of service that brands could not offer . Ten years later, this is still the case . Structurally , brands such marketing costs to invest less money in the quality of production and their tissue. This
allows us easily , apart from the aspect tailor-made to be able to
offer similar prices , with a level of fabric and superior workmanship. Today, the market is generally very promising for us. "Upscale but more accessible Samson is part of this new generation of bespoke tailors firmly rooted in his time. Without
denying the English spirit " Savile Row " ultimate reference bespoke ,
brand is characterized rather by a very personalized customization for a
predominantly younger than 45 customers. She
has just launched the " arty dandy " collection in collaboration with
the group 9th Concept , through which three artists have created an
original painting reproduced on the linings of suits, and proposed
limited series.The concern is the sustainability of expertise
If the suit is tailor- designed necessarily to shop, the shirt, it has attracted an increasing number of followers on the web. For the best known A Man Part or Saint -Sens ... the
latter recently acquired by Interactive MenInvest group came to bring
his expertise in distribution , marketing, e -commerce , and a network
of suppliers and logistics center. Its leader, Marc Ménasé then reflected in these words: "The personalization service on the web is under-exploited . I am convinced that man -made and still have a great story to write . "
Shared by another dynamic player in the web, the young brand Swann and
Oscar , which offers bespoke shirts reviews amounts well below the
traditional players (average price € 100 ) . "We
created Oscar Swann and the idea that the offer was to democratize ,
not to rush through opportunism on a niche market , says its co-leader
Vincent Colin.Du So, we would be able to convert buyers loan - to-wear -to-measure . It also comes with relatively large volumes and cost structures therefore very low. By cons , our Paris showroom is a crucial link between us and our clients. "
Nestled on a medium-high -end market, and Swann Oscar for his part to
address an age range between 26 and 40 years , rather city , CSP + . Making happens in a French workshop, when she does not take place in China, for newcomers. They
are finally tailors largely or half measures , concern remains
unquestionably the sustainability of expertise making use of much more
complex process than the ready- to-wear. When brands do not make tomorrow's leaders themselves , some are trying to export their behalf to ensure their survival. Thus,
many tailors are launched in the niche of half measures or even
ready-to -wear, the image of Cifonelli example , one of the two shops
Marbeuf street spends now . "This
is a course to pass, tells Lorenzo Cifonelli , it is now time to
fupport a name to build a real brand , without ever tarnishing by
concessions in terms of quality, which have made our reputation. "
If the directory is developed tweeds winter, summer also has its classics, sports coats and blazer. But
their choices often seem more complicated, perhaps this is due to the
sun and its light, which normally crushes us ... We will prefer clarity.
For if the reasons do not scare us usual, we still some scruples now. Here tonight three simple proposals, classic, almost essential to the wardrobe for the summer. The colors are voluntarily united, and that to facilitate associations with ties and shirts. This guarantees longevity too far from the whims of fashion bespoke suits .
So
you might have in your closet, in order, a blazer, a mock-Saharan
Africa, a color 'string' jacket: Three proposals so simplistic. The
blazer firstly, crossover or straight (easier to carry) is blue but can
vary in this tone, as here in a proposal for Brooks Brothers. Historically and in the sea, we did make the pants in the old sailing fishing, often dusty pink color. With, canvas sneakers and a shirt with blue stripes, completing all simply.
The Sahara - which by the way is not really - with its many pockets with flaps is very useful for you travelers or fly. You can cram inside it all your accessories, phone, keys, cards, wallet etc.. which are safe and do not risk falling if you defeat the jacket. White, it is easy to complete a sand or khaki, or blue chino. It is a versatile piece of cotton!
Finally, the little cheap custom suits still useful in the pockets of average wool colored string. It is the ideal companion of jeans. As it remains united, it can be completed and the urge of the time: checks, stripes, various colors, small patterns etc..
Note that these proposals can vary widely, staying on the same classical base, with a multitude of accessories and shoes. And you, what jacket often use? Do you have any other ideas?
The
wedding dress custom men are full of emotion and a great
responsibility, and there are many things going on to get the suit
tailored wedding perfect man. However,
you can use these tips bespoke suit wedding man to ensure that your
wedding dress custom man or your son or daughter goes smoothly from
beginning to end.
Want an original idea for your wedding dress tailored man and reception? How about a cruise! More
and more people are choosing to take their suit bespoke wedding
destination and the man have on a boat, and there are many good reasons
for this. You will find an excellent restaurant, a bar on site, and they have all the decor and set up the items you already have on deck.
If
you try to save money on your wedding reception costume tailor man,
think about planning for a time that does not require a lunch or dinner
to be served. Instead, you can just serve appetizers, drinks and / or desserts. This can save a significant amount on the cost of providing a full meal you.
If you are traveling abroad for your wedding dress custom man, consider hiring a wedding planner tailored suit local man. A
good wedding planner suit tailored rights in your country of choice can
make the difference between your memories and your worst nightmares. With
the planner on your side, you can overcome the language barrier,
mishaps service and a multitude of day chaos suit bespoke wedding man
who would ruin the day.
If you can afford one, a wedding planner tailored suit man can be a huge time saver and stress. A
planner can not only coordinate your wedding dress tailored man and
work with you to make your vision a reality, but it can also be a great
resource for ideas and opinions. It
will save you deal with every little minor detail and allows you to
focus on the planning and be able to enjoy the high-level process.
If you are concerned about your budget wedding dress custom man, keep your wedding party dress custom small man. This means there will be less gifts to buy for your attendants and less bouquets to purchase. If
it is too difficult for you to decide which people understand, consider
just having a best man and a maid of honor to make things easier.
When
you have family who can offer services that are perfect for your
wedding dress custom man, like a DJ or a baker, do not be afraid to ask
for the gift trade. It
can be a great boon to your budget if someone close to you can offer a
service that all or part of their wedding gift suit tailored for you
man. Remember that this is a matter for them, most likely, and may have restrictions.
When children are invited to your wedding dress custom man, you have to take their schedules into consideration. Make
sure there is a room available for naps if necessary, and hiring a
babysitter to take children who are restless to play elsewhere can save
your sanity. Give parents permission to children to leave early if they have to do at home for bedtime.
Tips
like these can keep your cheap custom suits roll man on the right
foot, giving you a great to keep in your heart forever experience. Even
if this is not your own bespoke wedding dress man, these tips could you
give good advice to carry the bride and groom for their special day is
as memorable as they wish.
Summer is here, proceed as you want everyone to traditional combo cheap custom suits/short/tongs ... What could be more banal, vulgar limit, give you the color of the class, the same dandy!
You know, it is not enough to shorten your clothes for less the weight of the heat raging above our heads!
Then choose materials, noble but to spend the summer with the comfort and style of the Croisette.
Have you ever seen Roger Moore wander the world known streets of Monaco wearing shorts, a tank top and a cap? Unthinkable, you say? So stay on this page, you're not a stylistic totally hopeless case! :-)
Anyway, back to our sheep, what could be more elegant than strutting arm Madame, dressed in a sailor blazer and pants color?
You may say "you see it for decades in old British holidaying on the coast (sorry Roger)" and you do not have totally wrong, however getting a bit dandy gentlemen, so give in to fashion and chino Moreover, return, combine them moccasins color, very lively in a blazer pocket (marine), although close to the body and voila!
This dress bespoke suit code, close evenings "white" of our late Eddy Barclay, is not without displeasing has a wide range, having said that, you'll stand out from the cut and material of your stylistic attributes!
Do not hesitate, dare color dare style, become Dandy, summer makes it possible to view the follies the austere winter hideout in our wardrobes!
Is there an objective way to compare the quality of manufacturing a bespoke suit fabric? ... Maybe-The meaning of the apostrophe s ('s) or "Super s ..."That means factories fine wool 100% woolor wool blends with superior wool and alpaca, angora, cashmere, vicuna ...- The meaning of "100" in "Super 100's"The figure after the word Super and before the apostrophe 'S' represents the fineness of the fabric.One
could imagine that this figure represents the number of fibers (hair
sheep) that are woven into one square centimeter (cm2). So,
the larger the diameter of the fiber is, the smaller the fiber is fine
and there are wool fibers in a square inch of fabric. In any case this is how we could imagine.In fact, although this is not fake, it's a little less obvious:this
measurement or rating is determined by the IWTO (International Wool
Textile Organization: "International Organization textile and wool").The diameter of each fiber of wool 80s must measure up to 19.75 microns;19.25 micron for the 90s;18.75 for the 100s etc ...Then just remove all 0.5 microns to reach the 10s ... 210s wool whose fibers are finer than 13.25 microns!Recall that a micron or micrometer (microns) is 10 ^ -6 m = 0, m = 0 000 001 001 mm.The fiber diameter of wool 210s so far less than 0.01325 millimeter!Suddenly, a Super 100's wool is thicker than Super 120's;and Super 160's wool finer than wool super 140's.In what wool is made my costume?Generally, on a 100% wool suit, if nothing is specified, the fabric is definitely super 80 or super 90.Generally, all the costumes ready to wear (PAP), which offer the finest wools distinguished by a label inside the jacket.Fine wool fine wool OR: pros and cons!
Fabrics <100's (mid - end) Fabrics> 150's (very fine)Affordable Priceleast the fabric is thin, the less work, less expensive it is.Generally produced in large quantities, it does not make a rare fabric. Dear dear ... seeOver the fabric is thin, the rarer it is, the more it is worked.Moreover,
since the selling price (several thousand euros per square meter),
weavers produce only small quantities, which makes it even more special
even rarer tissue.Flexibility, keeping the beauty & More fabric is thick it will be less flexible ... and by extension ... less everything. Over the fabric is thin, it is more flexible, it has a nice outfit, it is more comfortable to wear.Creases little crumpled little wrinkle much from 150'sThe Durable enough strength ... but it all depends on the cause. More fragile, requires more attention to maintenance.In shortMore fabric will endit will be more comfortable to wear,but it will be more expensive,and it will ask attention for its maintenance.What is the best choice?It all depends on the use you do, but the smart man would recommend a super 120'S wool.In which can you find costumes with fine wool of good quality?In Hackett, who works almost exclusively with one of the biggest investors in the world: Loro Piana.In addition, you will find Hackett wool four seasons to wear your costume throughout the year.Who to watch?Always be wary of suits that claim super super 150's or 160's and that cost less than 300 Euros ... this equation is impossible.Go
first by sound values to soak up
some excellent fabrics, then you will see if the coveted fabric really
is a super 150's.In any case, do not hesitate to caress the fabric to make between your fingers at the weigh-in ...It must please you, because in the end, the important thing is to feel comfortable in his costume!Let's chic, elegant let, let in harmony with our cheap custom suit!Coming soon: An article on the large investors as LoroPiana, to be sure you are not mistaken!
