Friday, August 30, 2013
Fashion Daily News
If it is a myth alive and well in the world of men's fashion , clothing tailor- second skin par excellence, has the air to carve a new youth market rights.Once reserved for some eélite , traditionally composed of politicians, businessmen, bankers and other notables seeing here an outward sign of distinction must , tailor-made now appeals to a broader audience in search of its quality and customization. In its wake appears an increasing number of accessible brands installeées or recent , strong a proposal tailored and " half-measure " in addition to or as a main activity. Niche market, tailor-made together actors with different faces , historical tailors officiating especially " great extent" tailors positioned on an area mid -high range , to new entrants to the internet, all claiming a service outstanding against the foot of rampant standardization. For his part, even if its purpose is engaged in a process of increasingly differentiating the suit , however, for only 6% of the menswear market against 10% ten years ago (source : 2009 IFM) .On the Paris market , 31 and 33 rue Marbeuf Cifonelli the brothers , both great- son of the founder of the house of the same name, saw in this revival " began there nearly five years," an excellentthrough dust an aging market. "A market that has become very active , says Lorenzo Cifonelli , witnessed a real demand from customers whose desire turns to exclusive products , out of the ordinary . Today, we are more exposed to a scarcity of suppliers and know-how, as demand increases and the customer renews . The man truly supports recent annéees on all areas of aesthetics, and custom-made part . It is now home with us 30 years young , passionate about the product. " Cifonelli , which is part of this generation of tailors " largely " is like a handful of French tailors in the vein of expertise " hand-stitched " , the first prize in a costume indication for starting around € 4,800 . Located in Paris for most , we count on the fingers of one hand the big names have their own workshops, image Cifonelli , Smalto , Camps de Luca Torcello or Stark and Sons . In France , there would be 150 tailors according to the National Federation of master tailors in France (source: Crafts ) .If the big French houses perpetuate many years expertise " bespoke " (Editor's note : making a tailored suit without using a wildcard pattern ) , they appear to remain increasingly facing new wave of " neo- tailors " attracted by the phenomenon. Whether famous or outsider , each brand comes out with a proposal tailored service or rather ... half measure , according to the purists. In February , Hermes opened its first store dedicated solely aa male universe, 230 m2 on Madison Avenue in New York. Makeup " aa English " in the manner of a private apartment , the shop acquires a large part of a space dedicated to special orders and custom-made . Also flourished successive proposals designers like Giorgio Armani ( Fatto a Mano su Misura ), Ralph Lauren (Made to Order) or Jil Sander Sartorial line and complemented by a service tailor-made shirts. Last blouse date Figaret the brand has also reached the milestone by introducing a corner "custom " within its flagship store of the Madeleine in Paris. One way to diversify its lending -to-wear , as is eégalement Hugo Boss by launching its online Tailored Line or Hackett .Industrial measurement , sometimes hand-finished
All these offers are developed on the same model , and are in fact more similar to the "half - measure." The future owner of a measured , for example shirt, can acquire a variety of desired criteria : collars, cuffs types , buttonholes , pockets in the chest or embroidered initials to a relatively large selection of quality fabrics normal or greater . After taking measurements and the choice of the cut marks then fit a standard pattern and a factory is then responsible for making . Also referred to as industrial measurement , although sometimes some finishes are hand finished . "I do not like the term used for " half measures , "says Stephan Ricard for his part , co-founder with Sophie Samson brand of custom-made suits of the same name . Half measure would mean " take half measures ? " I think this is wrong. For my part, I take all measures a professional tailor . I prefer to talk about tailor-made and largely as haute couture. It should be noted that today's software has evolved , and you can get a very large number of parameters , which will further the understanding of the morphology of each of our clients. "The Parisian brand , the average price of a costume is around € 710, just recently opened its fourth store in the capital boulevard Raspail, between Paul Smith and Kenzo . "I often say that our market is not one -to-measure , but high-end costume. When we started ten years ago , the concept was to make up for our lack of brand a level of service that brands could not offer . Ten years later, this is still the case . Structurally , brands such marketing costs to invest less money in the quality of production and their tissue. This allows us easily , apart from the aspect tailor-made to be able to offer similar prices , with a level of fabric and superior workmanship. Today, the market is generally very promising for us. "Upscale but more accessible Samson is part of this new generation of bespoke tailors firmly rooted in his time. Without denying the English spirit " Savile Row " ultimate reference bespoke , brand is characterized rather by a very personalized customization for a predominantly younger than 45 customers. She has just launched the " arty dandy " collection in collaboration with the group 9th Concept , through which three artists have created an original painting reproduced on the linings of suits, and proposed limited series.The concern is the sustainability of expertise
If the suit is tailor- designed necessarily to shop, the shirt, it has attracted an increasing number of followers on the web. For the best known A Man Part or Saint -Sens ... the latter recently acquired by Interactive MenInvest group came to bring his expertise in distribution , marketing, e -commerce , and a network of suppliers and logistics center. Its leader, Marc Ménasé then reflected in these words: "The personalization service on the web is under-exploited . I am convinced that man -made and still have a great story to write . " Shared by another dynamic player in the web, the young brand Swann and Oscar , which offers bespoke shirts reviews amounts well below the traditional players (average price € 100 ) . "We created Oscar Swann and the idea that the offer was to democratize , not to rush through opportunism on a niche market , says its co-leader Vincent Colin.Du So, we would be able to convert buyers loan - to-wear -to-measure . It also comes with relatively large volumes and cost structures therefore very low. By cons , our Paris showroom is a crucial link between us and our clients. " Nestled on a medium-high -end market, and Swann Oscar for his part to address an age range between 26 and 40 years , rather city , CSP + . Making happens in a French workshop, when she does not take place in China, for newcomers. They are finally tailors largely or half measures , concern remains unquestionably the sustainability of expertise making use of much more complex process than the ready- to-wear. When brands do not make tomorrow's leaders themselves , some are trying to export their behalf to ensure their survival. Thus, many tailors are launched in the niche of half measures or even ready-to -wear, the image of Cifonelli example , one of the two shops Marbeuf street spends now . "This is a course to pass, tells Lorenzo Cifonelli , it is now time to fupport a name to build a real brand , without ever tarnishing by concessions in terms of quality, which have made our reputation. "