Is there an objective way to compare the quality of manufacturing a bespoke suit fabric? ... Maybe-The meaning of the apostrophe s ('s) or "Super s ..."That means factories fine wool 100% woolor wool blends with superior wool and alpaca, angora, cashmere, vicuna ...- The meaning of "100" in "Super 100's"The figure after the word Super and before the apostrophe 'S' represents the fineness of the fabric.One could imagine that this figure represents the number of fibers (hair sheep) that are woven into one square centimeter (cm2). So, the larger the diameter of the fiber is, the smaller the fiber is fine and there are wool fibers in a square inch of fabric. In any case this is how we could imagine.In fact, although this is not fake, it's a little less obvious:this measurement or rating is determined by the IWTO (International Wool Textile Organization: "International Organization textile and wool").The diameter of each fiber of wool 80s must measure up to 19.75 microns;19.25 micron for the 90s;18.75 for the 100s etc ...Then just remove all 0.5 microns to reach the 10s ... 210s wool whose fibers are finer than 13.25 microns!Recall that a micron or micrometer (microns) is 10 ^ -6 m = 0, m = 0 000 001 001 mm.The fiber diameter of wool 210s so far less than 0.01325 millimeter!Suddenly, a Super 100's wool is thicker than Super 120's;and Super 160's wool finer than wool super 140's.In what wool is made my costume?Generally, on a 100% wool suit, if nothing is specified, the fabric is definitely super 80 or super 90.Generally, all the costumes ready to wear (PAP), which offer the finest wools distinguished by a label inside the jacket.Fine wool fine wool OR: pros and cons!
Fabrics <100's (mid - end) Fabrics> 150's (very fine)Affordable Priceleast the fabric is thin, the less work, less expensive it is.Generally produced in large quantities, it does not make a rare fabric. Dear dear ... seeOver the fabric is thin, the rarer it is, the more it is worked.Moreover,
since the selling price (several thousand euros per square meter),
weavers produce only small quantities, which makes it even more special
even rarer tissue.Flexibility, keeping the beauty & More fabric is thick it will be less flexible ... and by extension ... less everything. Over the fabric is thin, it is more flexible, it has a nice outfit, it is more comfortable to wear.Creases little crumpled little wrinkle much from 150'sThe Durable enough strength ... but it all depends on the cause. More fragile, requires more attention to maintenance.In shortMore fabric will endit will be more comfortable to wear,but it will be more expensive,and it will ask attention for its maintenance.What is the best choice?It all depends on the use you do, but the smart man would recommend a super 120'S wool.In which can you find costumes with fine wool of good quality?In Hackett, who works almost exclusively with one of the biggest investors in the world: Loro Piana.In addition, you will find Hackett wool four seasons to wear your costume throughout the year.Who to watch?Always be wary of suits that claim super super 150's or 160's and that cost less than 300 Euros ... this equation is impossible.Go
first by sound values to soak up
some excellent fabrics, then you will see if the coveted fabric really
is a super 150's.In any case, do not hesitate to caress the fabric to make between your fingers at the weigh-in ...It must please you, because in the end, the important thing is to feel comfortable in his costume!Let's chic, elegant let, let in harmony with our cheap custom suit!Coming soon: An article on the large investors as LoroPiana, to be sure you are not mistaken!