Vintage Fits

Dressing Optimistically for Hard Times: 1929-1939
How Then Is Right For Now
Wearing a bold suit gives the wearer added confidence in uncertain times. This era gave a lot of credence to the phrase “the clothes make the man”. Today, many men are seeking to improve their profile in the limited job market with less income. Menswear of the 1930s adapted to this similar situation with adaptations that stood the test of bad times as well as the good.
Because these clothes are over 70 years old and made of almost exclusively natural fibers and blends, they have been damaged, colorfasted or worn out. My advice for those inspired by the Dirty Thirties is to spare finding actual pieces. If the drape style of the 1930s works well with your body type, look to that fit as an inspiration in a modern suit. If your frame does not correspond to bulkier fittings, stick to accessories like pocket squares, cuff-links and suspenders to give your new suit a vintage touch.
Fits
If you have a tall slender frame, fits from this era should add some needed bulk. At this time, suits were modified to create the image of a large torso. Shoulders were squared using wadding or shoulder pads and sleeves were tapered to the wrist. Peaked lapels framed the v-shaped chest and added additional breadth to the wide shoulders.
Timeless patterns in menswear came from this period. Dark fabrics were enhanced by herringbone and vertical and diagonal stripes. In winter, brown cheviot was popular. In spring, accents of white, red or blue silk fibers were woven into soft wool. The striped suit became a standard element in a man’s wardrobe at this time. Single, double, chalk, wide and narrow stripes were all in demand. Today, these elongating patterns work best with the shorter or larger man.
Accessories

• Pocket Squares- This period made the mandatory finishing touch on any suit. Like a good hair-cut, the pocket square does not draw attention to itself. You will be able to find the standard 16 inch pocket square in a variety of patterns from this era fairly easily at good vintage stores. Icons like Fred Astaire would puff-fold his where the Duke of Windsor “staged” or folded it at an angle.
• Suspenders- The most recognizable accessory of the 1930s are suspenders. The genuine article may be hard to find and the banded elastic may be worse for wear. Suspenders are only an option for pants without belt loops and suspender buttons. Clasped suspenders came later in the 20th Century.
• Formal Hats- The Jazz Age offered several hats. If you are adventurous or an experienced hat wearer, you have your pick on the fedora, derby, or homburg hat. The homburg, with its well-defined rolled brim, is the more popular and versatile of the three. If you stay away from the kitsch hats with feathers and buckles, this accessory will be tasteful with a well fitting suit.

IT’S ABOUT AWARENESS

As we take notice of how the collar fits around the neck, we develop an eye for fine tailoring.
Here are some contrasting examples of the bad and the good:

Collar gap with classic V-Tug with collapsing fabric and a curved (instead of straight) left lapel.

And now for the good:

PG Director Greg Jacomet in Cifonelli (who worked with an uneven shoulder). Here there is no collar-gap, around 2 cm of shirt collar showing in back, a straight lapel angle, and the correct amount of front tugging.

Stefan Bernard in a Zegna jacket. Notice the close collar fit on both sides of the neck, and the correct front panel tugging. The lapel angle is intentionally curved instead of straight, with both lapels curved and angled evenly.

Pal Zileri. A nice RTW specimen on all counts.
There are a few things you can do to improve the situation of dealing with a collar gap, ranging from wearing wide-spread shirt collars to mitigate the appearance of the collar opening to looking at having a tailor build up a weak shoulder on the coat, to making a subtle shift in button placement to improve a pull of the coat to the left or to the right (again, usually indicted by uneven shoulders). But, of course, having the collar correctly made to form to your neck from the beginning will save a lot of trouble in the end.

related post: http://ausuit.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-essential-office-black- everyday-suit.html

Why Black Suit Is The Best Choice?

For generations, black is the color that best interpreted a high priority in popularity. In fact, every culture has a long tradition, race, society, and even an organization. Their own idea of ​​what is black This color can represent both positive and negative aspects of life and feelings.
Death, the Devil, and pain are part of the connotation that goes with the black in the Western world. On the one hand happy Africans that color as a symbol of black magic and occultism, especially because their rituals are often carried out at night. Secondly revered Japanese culture that black is the color meaning hill, and experience. As for the Europeans is the color that has been completed in this information, academics, elegance and professionalism.
In contrast to the fashion world, especially in men's suits  fashion, black is the perfect image of power, authority, professionalism and masculinity. This was a permanent symbol of fashion for generations, despite the fact that the fashion trends and styles keep changing for years and even styles and designs appear methodically, black suit has become a symbol of the majesty of the deep men, especially in the economy. The role of classic black suits transcended through time, the increased use of formal menswear, etc.. Formal meetings such as weddings, church functions, corporate events such as conferences, meetings, etc., require the need for this type of suit. Black men costumes enhance the wearer's personality. The fact that these suits are very versatile, can be synchronized with colored vests and ties.
Over work clothes, men black suits are an indicator of the social and financial reputation. These combinations are also identified and as a luxury accessory collections manly man such as watches, cars, sports, etc, as it is to say an armed man ever. In fact, these costumes are definitely a concrete reflection of the personality of man and the status quo. Therefore, this suit is the best choice for professional celebrities.
In addition, the suits of black men are apparently more expensive because the demand goes with him. The main reason could be that the beautiful fabrics and sewing to. But on the other hand it is true that it is. Many cheaper suits on the market that are not lacking even style and design that expensive black suit Furthermore, due to its use, you will find a variety of designs and styles of men's suits on the market. Likewise, online stores offer the best deals and promotions for this type of instance.