Think back to when you got your first custom suits. Maybe you got it as a
graduation gift, or perhaps you needed to buy one for your first job
interview. Likely, you went to a department store and were assisted
by a sales associate who helped make small adjustments to the suit’s
fit. You then bought the suit and had it as part of your wardrobe from
that point forward. But suit buying, as most men already know, doesn’t
happen solely in department stores. Men can have a custom suit made
from scratch, or can even order their suit over the internet and have it
delivered to their home. Not only can men decide how to purchase a
suit, they can also decide how the suit is created. There are huge
differences between custom, hand-made suits and mass produced
ones produced in a factory. Today, The Sharp Suit will help highlight
the differences between the major types of suits: bespoke,
made-to-measure, and off-the-rack.
Bespoke suits are custom-made suits, often
considered to be some of the highest quality mens garments in the
world. The word means exactly what it sounds like: in olden days the
fabric a custom suit was to be constructed from was said to be spoken
for. Savile Row in London is the home of many of the world’s preeminent
bespoke suit tailors, but these experts, like New York’s Martin Greenfield Clothiers,
can be found all over the world. These master craftsmen can spend
upwards of 60 hours creating a suit, constructing it by hand using the
highest quality fabrics. Sure, some bespoke suits are made using
machines but those have been described by some people as “lifeless.”
Hand sewn bespoke suits are still considered the gold standard in
menswear. And it’s easy for a tailor to create a new suit for a
customer once they’ve been measured for their first suit. Bespoke
tailors will cut stiff paper to create a pattern for the fabric after
the customer has been measured. This cutout can then be used to create
any future suits the customer may request. These products often carry a
hefty price tag, so it’s not uncommon to find bespoke clothiers
constructing both bespoke suits and selling off-the-rack suits (because
they have better profit margins and more consistent sales). The quality
of these off-the-rack suits pales in comparison to the bespoke suits,
though, and these hand-crafted suits are coveted by the titans of
business and politics throughout the world.
Made-to-measure suits straddle the line between
bespoke and off-the-rack. These suits are similar to bespoke suits, but
the customer often has fewer pattern and design choices when ordering
the suit. Pre-existing patterns are assembled according to the
customer’s measurements and specifications. This requires the tailor to
take the customer’s measurements, but he or she won’t go as far as the
bespoke tailor in creating a stiff paper pattern from those measured
numbers. The measurements are normally stored in a computer and this
allows the tailor to quickly reference a customer’s previous purchase(s)
if needed. This suit option still provides the customer with a great
deal of control over the final wardrobe product, and some great examples
of made-to-measure suit companies can be found all over the internet. SuitSupply and Indochino are two of the many options, and they offer fantastic, tailored suits at a fraction of the cost of a bespoke suit.
Lastly, customers with standard body types that know exactly what suit they want (usually at a low price) opt for an off-the-rack suit.
These suits are frequently found in department stores, are pre-made and
can be adjusted slightly by a tailor to better fit the customer. Most
men’s first suits (including suits for homecoming and prom dances) were
likely purchased or rented off-the-rack from their local department
store. There is nothing inherently wrong with an off-the-rack suit;
they just work best though for men with “standard body types”. Men with
sloped shoulders, slim waists and wider shoulders, or those that fall
between standard sizes may have difficulty finding a great-fitting
off-the-rack suit. The limited tailoring options make it challenging
to create a perfect fit if the suit doesn’t already fit well before any
alterations are made. Stores like Macy’s or Men’s Wearhouse specialize in these types of suits, and often have great deals on products for men starting their suit wardrobe.
We will leave you with a couple key points to remember, while
you decide which of the three suits works best for you. First, prices
do not automatically indicate a suit’s quality. Sure, bespoke suits
will cost more than the other two types, but that doesn’t mean a
disciplined customer can’t find a sharp suit in a department store or
online that fits great and looks fantastic. Second, and in line with
the first point, it’s always better to choose a well-fitted suit over an
expensive one. The well-fitted suit always makes a man look fantastic,
is a staple of an male wardrobe, and can make up any potential lack of
quality through its stylish looks. Fit
is always the most important element of any suit – get that squared
away and any of the suit types listed above will make the perfect
addition to your growing suit wardrobe.
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