History of Men Suits

History:

All over history, men donned suits to gain respect from their peers and the appreciation of women. The wearing of suits originated as a style of dress in the 17th century as men, who in history dressed more ornately than women, downgrade their highly-festooned jackets and pants to a simpler manner of dress. In the 19th century European men in particular required a comfortable alternative to the standard huge attire of the period, and thus the modern suit was born.

Men’s Suits and Dressing Common Terms

For Men’s wear, particularly in Men’s suit there are various words used by tailor or shoppers. These common terms are necessary to know for Men’s wear. Knowing terms for Men’s wear give perfect guidelines in selecting or tailoring Men’s dress.

Men’s Suit: Jackets :

•    Full dress: Tails or Tailcoat   
•    Cutaway:  Morning coat. They are short in the front and long in the back. Tapers from the front to a wide back tail. Usually reserved for "Morning or Daytime" weddings.
•    Mandarin: standup style coat with no lapels.
•    Tuxedo:  "regular" coat
•    Stroller: semi-formal suit jacket
•    Single-breasted: Single-breasted coats button down the center. In regards to jacket; symmetrical front; buttons at the center; option of leaving coat buttoned or unbuttoned
•    Double-breasted: Double-breasted coats cross-over the center to button. In regards to jacket; one side of coat overlaps the center and buttons across to the other side; usually gives a fuller look in the chest area; suggested that these coats be buttoned at all times while standing.

Men’s Suit: Lapels:

There are different types of Lapel (commonly known as collar) for Men Suit’s Coat as follows:
•    Notch Lapel: Triangular Indentation in lapel (It is considered as most common and popular lapel style for man’s suit)
•    Peak Lapel: V-shaped Lapel that points upward
•    Shawl Collar: Rounded lapels

Men’s Suit: Coat and Trouser Material:

For Men’s suit, terms used for various types of fabric such as super wool of 100, 110, 120 count
•    Worsted Wool: 100% Wool fabric (standard); thread count is generally 60 to 75 threads per inch in worsted wool.
•    Super 100s: Finer and softer wool that Super 100s for Men’s suit. In super 100’s material thread count is 100 threads per inch.
•    Super 110s: even softer than the Super 100s; thread count is 110 threads per inch.
•    Super 120s: Men’s suit with Wool Super 120’s is considered as the soft material. In super 120’s the softer thread count is 120 threads per inch.

Men’s Suit:dress Shirts:

•    Wingtip: Standup collar with downward points. Most popular and most formal choice.
•    Mandarin: Standup collar without the points.
•    Down collar: Similar to your standard dress shirt
•    Cross wick: Crosses in front and is fastened with a button cover
•    Material options: 100% cotton, poly/cotton blend, micro fiber
•    French cuffs: Folded over and closed with cufflinks
•    Convertible cuffs: not folded over; closed with cufflinks

Pink is beautiful

  

Gentlemen,

The Spring 2012 edition of Esquire’s Big Black Book features a beautiful series of articles on colours often shunned by gents.
Among these hues, pink is probably most often dismissed because of its strong feminine connotation (haven’t we all learned that pink is for girls and blue for boys?).
However, BBB’s article reminds us that up until the mid-20th century, baby boys were most often dressed in pink and not blue. Before the dawn of the 50s, pink evoked “masculine strength” and army khaki pants were called pinks because of their slight shade of pink.
Far from advocating a strong return of pink in our wardrobes, we still want to bring to your attention that it should not be avoided. It has great coordination potential and will breathe its pizzazz and lightness into your ensembles.
Here are a few examples.

Photo taken on the page of Facebook friends “Pocket Square Lovers” : © Karl-Edwin Guerre

Seashore composition by Marc Guyot

Double-breasted suits

The double-breasted suit isn’t one that we all risk. It takes a certain man with a certain style to pull of the suit that isn’t the first option for everyday wear.

But we’re seldom seeing it in stores, the exquisite style of the overlapping jacket; the heritage of the classic design; the slick, swagger of those who wear it.

Menswear is turning increasingly casual and fewer men are opting for choosing the double-breasted alternative. But we think that you guys just need to build the confidence to pull it off.

Best suited for medium and tall builds, ensure that the jacket is tailored at the waist, giving illusion to even the shorter guys have more prominent shoulders and fill out the classic look. The best amount of buttons is six, with two rows of three buttons on the outside, along with an additional closure on the inside.

And for the fine details:
For the fabric

Choose an all-season wool that can be worn nearly year round.
For the colour

Opt for dark navy or pinstripes – classic without the strictness of basic black
For the pants

When you go with double-breasted styles, choose pleats and cuffs – they are vital to complete the look.
For the shirt

Take advantage of the broad shoulders for a wide-collar shirt, instead of choosing the simple straight collar. Go even more formal with French cuffs and cuff links to complete the look.
For the accessories

A pocketsquare. Do it. (And match every event with a 17-pack of Silk Solid Pocket Squares). Gorgeous.

Can you pull it off? Post us a link with your signature swagger, killing it in your double-breasted duds.

Don’t have one? Choose your favourite from http://www.matthewaperry.com/.

Men's Suit Fabrics

When ordering a custom suit, a man is confronted with a sometimes discouraging selection of fabrics. While proportion and fit are mostly dictated by your body, you may select your suit's fabric considering climate, occasion, and the image you hope to project. What follows is a primer on textile terminology intended to demystify the world of suit fabrics.

For centuries now, most men's suits have been made out of wool. This faithful textile drapes beautifully, maintains its form reliably, and can be spun and woven to be lightweight and breathable, or to be warm and cozy. Worsted wool, from which most suits are made, goes through a finishing process that leaves it smooth and somewhat shiny.

Suitings are often categorized by fine quality. The wool number, e.g. 90s, originally meant the number of 560-yard spools a spinner could get out of a pound of raw wool at the thickness in question, with three-digit numbers earning the prefix Super." Since textiles are not harshly regulated in most countries, these numbers may be overstated. Finer yarns are smoother in appearance, softer to the touch, and produce lighter fabrics. They are also more luxurious, less durable, and more prone to wrinkling. 80s wool makes beautiful suiting’s that are perfect for work. 

Super 100s is a bit more luxurious, and Super 120s is extremely smooth. Many men believe that anything finer is too finicky for normal wear, but for those who crave decadently fine cloths the high-tech textile manufacturers turn out fabrics as fine as Super 200s.

The weight of the fabric, e.g. 10 oz, is what a yard of the fabric weighs. Heavier fabrics are, naturally, warmer than lighter ones. 10-12 oz suitings are ideal for spring and fall, as well as Northern summers and Southern winters. Lighter fabrics, often called "tropical" wool without a specific weight, are nearly as cool as shorts, perfect for hot summers. Flannel and tweed, in weights of 14 to 18 oz, are best for cold winters.

Wool flannel is not complete the same way that worsted wool is, and it is so softer, even slightly fuzzy. It can be heavy, for winter, or light, for spring, fall, and cooler summers. Flannel was the fabric of choice for business men of the post-war United States, as shown in the 1956 film The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit, and today it retains a prominent spot in the pantheon of business attire.

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